Need to assist enhance Philadelphia’s waterways? Specialists have this recommendation: Eat extra oysters.
Because the summer time season approaches, so does the time for peak oyster enjoyment. And there’s no higher time to start out slurping up these slippery suckers than this weekend. The Partnership for the Delaware Estuary (PDE), an area environmental nonprofit that works to guard the Delaware River and Bay, is teaming up with Oyster Home’s Shuckfest, Philly’s annual oyster celebration.
Collectively, the restaurant and nonprofit will work to recycle each single shell used on the competition, which runs Sunday from 12 to three:30 p.m at Liberty Level on the Seaport Museum.
The PDE has spent virtually a decade increasing its oyster shell recycling program. The initiative collects used shells from eating places and repurposes them to create environmentally-friendly and helpful reefs within the Delaware River.
“We do a variety of dwelling shoreline work and dwelling shoreline implementation,” stated Leah Morgan, the assistant supervisor of estuary science on the PDE. “The reef itself can also be excellent at defending the shoreline from all of these dangers, like storm surge, coastal flooding. So by reintroducing this materials again into areas the place it’s sometimes or was as soon as very ubiquitously discovered, it’s actually helpful.”
Recycled oyster shells can play an important half in restoring Philly’s waterways – serving to enhance water high quality by way of filtration, serving as a habitat for child oysters and defending the shoreline from erosion. Shuckfest will likely be serving up hundreds of shells, which is able to then be utilized in this system.
“Every farmer will deliver 800 oysters, and now we have 12 native oyster farms,” stated Sam Mink, the proprietor of Oyster Home and competition organizer. “After which now we have the oysters for ‘the training the right way to shuck’ desk, in order that’s just a few hundred oysters. After which now we have the oysters for the shucking competitors. It’s just a few hundred oysters, so I’d say upwards of 10,000 oysters.”
With this many mollusks available on the competition, this weekend is bound to not solely be nice in your style buds, but in addition for the Delaware River’s shoreline.
‘A full circle course of’
The PDE’s oyster recycling program launched in 2016, and within the final decade this system has grown larger and larger – now accumulating from eight completely different Philly eating places and two storefronts. Final 12 months, the group collected a complete of 134,482 kilos (greater than 67 tons!) of oyster shells to return to the shoreline, which is seven instances greater than they have been accumulating in 2020.
Choosing up all these shells round city isn’t any small feat. Ken Williamson, an oyster restoration specialist, has change into the go-to man on the PDE with regards to assortment. Twice every week he drives to eating places round Philly and masses barrels of oysters into his Chevy Silverado pickup truck. The follow, he says, has introduced some consideration round city.
“I undoubtedly do have a rapport with among the individuals in among the eating places, and even simply among the individuals across the metropolis I run into,” he stated. “There’s a mailman that has an analogous route in Fishtown. We’re at all times vying for a similar parking area. And we’re like, ‘Oh, hey.’ We chat on a regular basis now and wave at one another.”
Parking with a giant truck stuffed with oysters isn’t any joke.
“, generally I’ll park and cease someplace, get one thing to drink, or a espresso. And anyone close to me, individuals in convertibles, are like, ‘Oh my God. What’s that?’ If it’s stuffed with shells, the odor is fairly robust in the summertime.”
As soon as the shells are collected, they head to a administration space and sit outdoors for at the very least six months to undergo a curing course of.

“Throughout this curing course of, the shell is uncovered to the weather,” Morgan stated. “It’s confronted with generally excessive warmth, generally excessive chilly, rain, snow, sleet, any kind of climate that may successfully clear the shell – along with bugs form of scavenging on it and consuming any leftover bacterial or organic materials.”
Finally, after sufficient time, every shell will likely be “biologically safe” sufficient to return within the waterway and function a part of a reef. There, they work their magic and assist the native shoreline – bettering sediment, defending the coast, filtering the water, mitigating storm surge and increasing marsh grasses.
What’s extra, the shells work as a pure habitat for marsh animals and different critters.
“The precise shell itself is a very nice substrate for child oysters,” Morgan defined. “So recycled oyster shell, or useless oyster shell that exists on a wild reef, is the best materials for a larval oyster in its preliminary stage of life to come back and latch onto and develop to an grownup dimension and construct a reef.”
“The shell reef helps them and gives safety,” she added. “It turns into a full circle course of for these little guys, who will develop robust after which we are able to eat them and use their shells once more.”
Sustainable seafood
Initiatives just like the oyster recycling program on the PDE are a reminder to Philadelphians that consuming seafood is usually a sustainable follow.
Bryan Szeliga, the proprietor of Fishtown Seafood, was one of many early adopters of this system and has labored to assist the PDE broaden the initiative into new eating places.
“Don’t let the narrative of ‘farm-raised fish is dangerous,’ or ‘seafood is dangerous,’ or ‘the oceans are going to be empty by 2025’ — don’t let that narrative scare you from not consuming fish,” Szeliga stated. “We as people have to eat extra seafood … Earth is roofed by roughly 70% water, and solely 18% of the animal proteins we eat comes from the ocean, with half of that being farm-raised and half being wild.”
A part of Szeliga’s mission at Fishtown Seafood just isn’t solely to promote high quality, sustainable merchandise, but in addition to teach eaters on environmentally pleasant eating practices. Fishtown Seafood sells oysters from all around the East Coast.

“I’ve simply form of, over time, fallen in love with this very distinctive business,” Szeliga stated. “Most cooks would possibly know the right way to cook dinner seafood, however cooks don’t know something about seafood and the availability chain, and that’s one of many issues that we’re in a position to do and supply: to clarify it to individuals.”
One of many newer adoptees of the oyster shell recycling program is Jaffa Bar. Chef Andrew Henshaw stated that opting into this system was a “no brainer,” as a result of it reduces the restaurant’s waste and is a free service that helps native waterways.
The chef serves all kinds of oysters on the restaurant with completely different mignonettes and cocktail sauce.

“The mignonettes embrace a Yemenite-style chili paste with serrano peppers, jalapeno peppers, parsley, cilantro, garlic and ginger with coriander and cardamom,” he stated. He calls the combination “floral and vivid.”
“The mignonette is just a little bit spicy. It’s just a little bit bitter from the vinegar in there, after which form of provides savoriness from the shallots,” he stated. “And then you definately put it on high of a super-salty, briny oyster. And it’s similar to such a cool expertise to eat.”
Every oyster is exclusive
Shuckfest will likely be outdoors at Liberty Level, with a view of the Delaware River. The competition contains an amphitheater with stay music, dancing and a shucking competitors – the place rivals are graded not solely on how rapidly they’ll shuck, however the high quality of their work – in addition to a desk the place on a regular basis competition goers can discover ways to shuck an oyster. There may even be an out of doors beer backyard and scrumptious bites.
For many who haven’t appreciated oysters, maybe because of their uncooked and slippery nature, each Szeliga and Mink recommend it’s value it to present them one other strive.

“It’s virtually like somebody saying, ‘I don’t like wine,’ ” Szeliga stated. “Nicely, what wine did you’ve got? The place did you’ve got it from? Sure purple wines are completely different than white wines, and there are completely different geographies and completely different varietals, and so on. All of it makes for utterly completely different experiences of oysters. So a Gulf oyster [or a] Chesapeake Bay oyster goes to have a distinct taste profile, completely different salinity than one thing that’s popping out of Atlantic Canada or Maine, and so on.”
Mink echoed this sentiment, explaining that, for skeptics on the market, it’s OK to be picky.
“I’m not going to inform anybody that they’re flawed in the event that they don’t like one thing,” he stated. “However I’d recommend that they fight a freshly shucked oyster. So if they’d an oyster they usually didn’t have a great expertise, I’d ask, why? The place was it? What sort of oyster was it? How is it shucked?”
A superb oyster ought to style recent just like the water it comes from and may have a buttery really feel. For these concerned with studying extra in regards to the PDE’s oyster recycling program, Shuckfest can have a complete desk devoted to the initiative.
“We simply hang around as individuals cross by,” Williamson stated. “We converse with them, attempt to get individuals to enroll in our publication. Sometimes, we’ll discuss to any individual who’s a restauranteur or any individual who has a bigger curiosity in perhaps contributing to this system whereas we’re there, which is what we’re hoping for.”

Mink is wanting ahead to this weekend, and stated he’s anticipating round 400 individuals to come back out and take part. Tickets are $80 and attendees get to pattern two dozen oysters from 12 completely different native oyster growers. Proceeds will assist assist the Jetty Rock Basis and the PDE.
“We’re completely happy to be celebrating all of our native oyster farmers,” Mink stated. “It’s an effective way to pattern what now we have in our native oyster business.”
“Again within the day, we used to have so many oyster bars [in Philadelphia],” he added. “They was once highly regarded, they usually form of glided by the wayside. And oyster bars have been coming again lately, rather more fashionable than they ever have, at the very least in our lifetime. However we had a robust oyster business for fairly some time, and it died down, and we’re completely happy to be again and celebrating.”